TV JUST: Fashion

London Fashion Week: Felder Felder Fall/Winter 2015

London Fashion Week: Felder Felder Fall/Winter 2015

Ralph Lauren: A New York Icon

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It wouldn’t be New York Fashion Week without Ralph. His show is unmissable, as much for his standing in the world as for the revolutionary fashion or novelty of his clothes. A Ralph show is — maybe should always be — a Ralph show, so easily identifiable, so (to borrow one of fashion’s favorite clichés) iconic that you could probably peg one from space.</div>
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This one opened with an odyssey of taupe, journeyed through the Southwest and ended up in evening wear, the sort that might reappear on the Oscars red carpet this weekend — though likely not, as Mr. Lauren showed the last look, with furry gloves and a trapper’s hat.</div>
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There was a passage of looks inspired by men’s wear, too, some of them close cousins of those shown earlier at the company’s men’s presentation. The three-piece black leather suit available for him at Purple Label came down the runway for her; likewise the black evening boiler suit. Ricky Lauren, Mr. Lauren’s wife, was wearing a one-piece jumpsuit herself in the front row.</div>
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She was huddled in with Kanye West, who was seated among the Lauren clan. (Last week, in an interview with Style.com, he waxed ecclesiastical when describing Mr. Lauren: “Ralph is the god,” he said. “And that’s all I want to say about Ralph.”) A few seats down, and a couple Laurens away, sat the first lady of New York City, Chirlane McCray. She was so much a part of the family unit that when they leapt up to give the patriarch a standing ovation at the end of the show, she did too. Mr. Lauren offered her his hand.</div>
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“It was a wonderful show,” she said afterward, as she was ferried backstage. “I’m really happy to be here celebrating Ralph Lauren. A New York icon, right?</div>
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Ralph Lauren: A New York Icon

It wouldn’t be New York Fashion Week without Ralph. His show is unmissable, as much for his standing in the world as for the revolutionary...

Opening Ceremony Show or Spike Jonze Exhibition?

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Note the obscured face on that T-shirt. That belongs to Spike Jonze, 35-mm photographer, film and music video director, Oscar-winning screenwriter and, increasingly, contributing pal to Opening Ceremony.</div>
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Last season, Mr. Jonze interpreted the Opening Ceremony story, staging a one-act play on the retailer-turned-label’s history for its show; this season, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon returned the favor, using their fall presentation to curate a one-night only show of his early photos, 1985-2005. (The eagle-eyed could spot Chloë Sevigny, Keanu Reeves, Björk, the Beastie Boys, BMX legends and Kurt Cobain throughout.)</div>
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The photos lined the walls, but that wasn’t all. Ms. Lim and Mr. Leon cut up outtake photos to make prints for the O.C. garb, and subjected doodled-on contact sheets to the same treatment.</div>
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Opening Ceremony Show or Spike Jonze Exhibition?

Note the obscured face on that T-shirt. That belongs to Spike Jonze, 35-mm photographer, film and music video director, Oscar-winning scre...

From Proenza Schouler, a Collection Fit for a Museum

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 <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: georgia, 'times new roman', times, serif; font-size: 1rem; line-height: 23px;">Sometimes a location is a statement of intent. Proenza Schouler’s Wednesday night was the (old) Whitney Museum, the fabulously imposing Marcel Breuer building on Madison Avenue and 74th, soon to be the temporary home of contemporary art for the Met. The implication was clear enough: The other guys are making fashion. Proenza Schouler is art.</span><br />
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The collection, an explanation from the designers ran, “takes its cue from the New York School,” not only in the art itself — they mentioned the paintings of Helen Frankenthaler in particular, as well as the thinky conceptualism of Robert Morris — but the way that “the midcentury movement that shifted the focus of the art world to New York for the first time in art history.”</div>
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It’s not a big leap to make the parallel plain: Proenza Schouler is one of a very small number of designers who seem capable of exciting the kind of attention in Europe’s fashion capitals as they do in New York. (Not for nothing was LVMH rumored to be circling last August, with an eye to acquiring a stake in the line.)</div>
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Coats and dresses both wrapped and gaped, revealing dotted tights. Shoes wound around the feet and closed in knots. The finale looks were practically pagan, spotted with embroidery and sprouting feathers.</div>
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The whole collection went down with a bit of shock, as contemporary art can do. Just ask contemporary artists and their patrons in the gallery and curatorial worlds. Plenty of them made the trek up Madison to take it in: the artists Tauba Auerbach, Emily Sundblad and Nate Lowman; the photographers David Sims and Craig McDean; Amy Greenspon, the gallerist; and Klaus Biesenbach, the local genius of MoMA’s PS1. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER</div>
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From Proenza Schouler, a Collection Fit for a Museum

Sometimes a location is a statement of intent. Proenza Schouler’s Wednesday night was the (old) Whitney Museum, the fabulously imposing M...

Celebrating Oscar de la Renta and His Successor

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On one side of the runway sat the old guard, the perfectly coifed, expensively-furred women who made Oscar de la Renta a Park Avenue icon, women like Nancy Kissinger and Mercedes Bass. Barbara Walters was settled in their company; Annette de la Renta, the designer’s widow, was too, seated beside Anna Wintour. Bill Cunningham, before the show, hurried over to give her a warm hug.</div>
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On the other side, facing them, was the new guard, the brightest stars among them — and the reason, in all likelihood, for the many photographers waiting outside — Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss, a pair of skyscraper besties in complementary Oscar de la Renta dresses and clicking heels. Huma Abedin was just down the aisle.</div>
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The occasion Tuesday night was the first show by Peter Copping, Mr. de la Renta’s successor, who took the reins of the house more abruptly than planned when Mr. de la Renta died in October.</div>
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And when the collection came down the runway in the center, ranging from smart-set daywear in georgette, bouclé and tweed to fairy-tale ball gowns in radzimir and duchess satin, each model sporting an impeccable updo with a faint resemblance to Mrs. de la Renta’s own, it was met with warm applause. Guards old and new are not always in accord, but both sides agreed that Mr. Copping had done the founder proud. — MATTHEW SCHNEIER</div>
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Celebrating Oscar de la Renta and His Successor

On one side of the runway sat the old guard, the perfectly coifed, expensively-furred women who made Oscar de la Renta a Park Avenue icon,...

On Oscars Weekend, Tom Ford Draws the Starriest Front Row of the Fashion Season

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Tom Ford staged a fashion show in Hollywood on Oscars weekend, and it turns, out that, yes, everyone would show up for it.</div>
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Everyone like Gwyneth Paltrow.</div>
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“”I love the fact that Tom’s saying there aren’t rules in fashion anymore, that there aren’t seasons,” she said at a pre-show cocktail party, making her way into the show at Milk Studios.</div>
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And Julianne Moore, nominated for the Academy Awards in the best actress category.</div>
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“It’s pretty fun to be a spectator,” she said from her front-row perch. But surely she’s not a just a spectator from the front row, what with reporters bothering her and photographers begging for just one more shot?</div>
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“But I’m talking about Tom,” she said, sounding relieved. “I’m not talking about myself.”</div>
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And Scarlett Johansson.</div>
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“”It’s unexpected to see an event like this in Los Angeles more than anything,” she said, sitting nearby Miley Cyrus, Jennifer Lopez and Amy Adams, and wistfully recalling the halcyon days of Los Angeles Fashion Week.</div>
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On Oscars Weekend, Tom Ford Draws the Starriest Front Row of the Fashion Season

Tom Ford staged a fashion show in Hollywood on Oscars weekend, and it turns, out that, yes, everyone would show up for it. Everyone like...

The Top 10 Moments From Fall/Winter 2015 New York Fashion Week

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<em>T’s market director rounds up the most memorable happenings both on and off the runways.</em></div>
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<img alt="Clockwise from left: Sarah Rutson, Jenna Lyons, Joseph Altuzarra and Imran Amed at the Net-a-Porter dinner at Indochine." height="395" id="100000003524948" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-0OFX/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-0OFX-tmagArticle.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-0OFX/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-0OFX-tmagArticle.jpg" width="592" /></div>
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<strong>Fashion’s family meal</strong></div>
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In the middle of the marathon that was New York Fashion Week, the powerhouse online retailer Net-a-Porter brought together editors and designers — Jason Wu, Jenna Lyons, Adam Lippes — for a family dinner of sorts in honor of the newly appointed VP of Global Buying, Sarah Rutson. The gathering, which took place at Indochine, was a welcome reprieve from the hustle and bustle (and the elements).<span id="more-292686"></span></div>
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<img alt="Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian and Anna Wintour at Kanye West’s Adidas runway show." height="395" id="100000003524950" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-DI9S/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-DI9S-tmagArticle.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-DI9S/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-DI9S-tmagArticle.jpg" width="592" /></div>
<figcaption class="caption" itemprop="description" style="color: #909090; font-size: 1.2em; line-height: 1.2727em; margin-bottom: 0px;"><span class="caption-text">Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian and Anna Wintour at Kanye West’s Adidas runway show.</span><span class="credit" itemprop="copyrightHolder" style="display: inline; font-size: 1em; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 3px; margin-top: 8px; text-align: right;"><span class="visually-hidden" style="border: 0px; clip: rect(0px 0px 0px 0px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">Credit</span> Casey Kelbaugh for The New York Times</span></figcaption></figure></div>
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<strong>Kanye delivers fashion — and a showstopping front row</strong></div>
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After a near 45-minute wait, attendees of the curious Kanye West x Adidas collaboration were ushered into a completely dark room. The lights came on to reveal the collection — and illuminate the most impressive front row this season: Beyoncé, Jay Z, Sean Combs, Rihanna, Justin Bieber, Alexander Wang and the Kardashian clan (Kris, Kim, Khloé and Kendall).</div>
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<img alt="The designer Lisa Perry in her Sutton Place apartment, where she displayed her new collection." height="395" id="100000003524951" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-U5DZ/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-U5DZ-tmagArticle.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-U5DZ/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-U5DZ-tmagArticle.jpg" width="592" /></div>
<figcaption class="caption" itemprop="description" style="color: #909090; font-size: 1.2em; line-height: 1.2727em; margin-bottom: 0px;"><span class="caption-text">The designer Lisa Perry in her Sutton Place apartment, where she displayed her new collection.</span><span class="credit" itemprop="copyrightHolder" style="display: inline; font-size: 1em; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 3px; margin-top: 8px; text-align: right;"><span class="visually-hidden" style="border: 0px; clip: rect(0px 0px 0px 0px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">Credit</span> Cindy Ord/Getty Images</span></figcaption></figure></div>
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<strong>Designers at home</strong></div>
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A small set of designers opted for more personal presentations, going so far as to invite editors into their homes. First was Lisa Perry, whose Sutton Place apartment with sprawling views of the East River set the backdrop for her ’60s-inspired collection. Then, downtown in a warm West Village townhouse, Gabriela Hearst introduced her equally cozy debut collection, filled with sumptuous knits, dresses and outerwear inspired by her Uruguayan upbringing. And in Washington Square Park, Adam Lippes served breakfast among decadent Putnam & Putnam flower arrangements, which inspired the floral print in his fall 2015 collection.</div>
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<img alt="Spike Jonze photographs printed on clothes at Opening Ceremony." height="395" id="100000003524953" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-VYJH/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-VYJH-tmagArticle.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-VYJH/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-VYJH-tmagArticle.jpg" width="592" /></div>
<figcaption class="caption" itemprop="description" style="color: #909090; font-size: 1.2em; line-height: 1.2727em; margin-bottom: 0px;"><span class="caption-text">Spike Jonze photographs printed on clothes at Opening Ceremony.</span><span class="credit" itemprop="copyrightHolder" style="display: inline; font-size: 1em; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 3px; margin-top: 8px; text-align: right;"><span class="visually-hidden" style="border: 0px; clip: rect(0px 0px 0px 0px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">Credit</span> Helga Traxler</span></figcaption></figure></div>
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<strong>Spike Jonze snaps for OC</strong></div>
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The Opening Ceremony crew knows how to put on a show. It was hard to imagine how Humberto Leon and Carol Lim could top last season’s one-act play written by Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill — but they managed to, again with the help of Jonze. The design duo staged a gallery show that combined their collection with personal photography provided by the film director, including collages of skateboarders in black and white and rare pictures of <span style="color: red;">Bjork</span>. Some of the photos even made it into the collection itself, printed directly onto the clothes.</div>
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<img alt="The Proenza Schouler show, inside the Whitney Museum’s former location." height="395" id="100000003524949" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-47QZ/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-47QZ-tmagArticle.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-47QZ/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-47QZ-tmagArticle.jpg" width="592" /></div>
<figcaption class="caption" itemprop="description" style="color: #909090; font-size: 1.2em; line-height: 1.2727em; margin-bottom: 0px;"><span class="caption-text">The Proenza Schouler show, inside the Whitney Museum’s former location.</span><span class="credit" itemprop="copyrightHolder" style="display: inline; font-size: 1em; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 3px; margin-top: 8px; text-align: right;"><span class="visually-hidden" style="border: 0px; clip: rect(0px 0px 0px 0px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">Credit</span> Jason Decrow/Associated Press</span></figcaption></figure></div>
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<strong>A night at the museum</strong></div>
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The Proenza Schouler designers fittingly set their art-inspired collection against the backdrop of the Whitney Museum’s former location. It was a real-life night at the museum, complete with an appropriately appointed front row featuring big names in the art world like Dan Colen, Nate Lowman, Dustin Yellin and MOMA’s Klaus Biesenbach.</div>
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<img alt="Black played a major role at (from left) Alexander Wang, Thom Browne and Marc Jacobs." height="395" id="100000003525085" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-XJPN/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-XJPN-tmagArticle.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-XJPN/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-XJPN-tmagArticle.jpg" width="592" /></div>
<figcaption class="caption" itemprop="description" style="color: #909090; font-size: 1.2em; line-height: 1.2727em; margin-bottom: 0px;"><span class="caption-text">Black played a major role at (from left) Alexander Wang, Thom Browne and Marc Jacobs.</span><span class="credit" itemprop="copyrightHolder" style="display: inline; font-size: 1em; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 3px; margin-top: 8px; text-align: right;"><span class="visually-hidden" style="border: 0px; clip: rect(0px 0px 0px 0px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">Credit</span> Firstview</span></figcaption></figure></div>
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<strong>Back to black</strong></div>
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New York Fashion Week started off a bit quietly — until Saturday, when Alexander Wang showed a tough, overwhelmingly black collection punctuated only by studs, chain mail and a quick pop of <span style="color: red;">red buffalo plaid</span>. It was an aggressive, reactive — and totally refreshing — show. Then Thom Browne showed his own all-black collection in a funereal setting, his models mourning in seriously elegant headpieces designed by the legendary milliner Stephen Jones. And though Marc Jacobs’s collection included prints and color, the designer opened last night’s show with an all-black look, complete with gothic makeup and vinyl patent boots. Fall 2015 is shaping up to be darker than dark.</div>
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<img alt="A cigarette break in -20 degree windchill." height="395" id="100000003524954" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-1OUS/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-1OUS-tmagArticle.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-1OUS/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-1OUS-tmagArticle.jpg" width="592" /></div>
<figcaption class="caption" itemprop="description" style="color: #909090; font-size: 1.2em; line-height: 1.2727em; margin-bottom: 0px;"><span class="caption-text">A cigarette break in -20 degree windchill.</span><span class="credit" itemprop="copyrightHolder" style="display: inline; font-size: 1em; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 3px; margin-top: 8px; text-align: right;"><span class="visually-hidden" style="border: 0px; clip: rect(0px 0px 0px 0px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">Credit</span> John Taggart/European Pressphoto Agency</span></figcaption></figure></div>
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<strong>Weather woes</strong></div>
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It was cold. Really cold! Though we overheard one French stylist find the silver lining, saying the weather was “exotic,” we New Yorkers just found it painful to deal with salt-stained boots, red cheeks and the narrow fashion-show seating invaded by layers of outerwear. One redeeming factor was the runway trends toward warmth — shearling coats, knit dressing and tough boots — all of which felt especially appropriate for our sub-zero tundra.</div>
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<img alt="From left: Karl Lagerfeld, Rihanna and Naomi Campbell at the Fendi store opening." height="395" id="100000003524956" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-8YCD/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-8YCD-tmagArticle.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-8YCD/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-8YCD-tmagArticle.jpg" width="592" /></div>
<figcaption class="caption" itemprop="description" style="color: #909090; font-size: 1.2em; line-height: 1.2727em; margin-bottom: 0px;"><span class="caption-text">From left: Karl Lagerfeld, Rihanna and Naomi Campbell at the Fendi store opening.</span><span class="credit" itemprop="copyrightHolder" style="display: inline; font-size: 1em; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 3px; margin-top: 8px; text-align: right;"><span class="visually-hidden" style="border: 0px; clip: rect(0px 0px 0px 0px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">Credit</span> From left: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Fendi; Danny Kim for The New York Times</span></figcaption></figure></div>
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<strong>An A-list opening for Fendi’s new flagship</strong></div>
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The corner of 57th and Madison was abuzz last Friday, as the Fendi flagship opened for a star-studded crowd. To celebrate the opening, each of five fashionable personalities (Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jourdan Dunn, Leandra Medine and Rachel Feinstein) designed a <span style="color: red;">one-of-a-kind twist</span> on the brand’s iconic baguette bag, with all proceeds going to charity. Also in attendance at the fête were Karl Lagerfeld, Naomi Campbell, Sofia Coppola and more.</div>
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<img alt="Edie Campbell on the runway at Boss." height="395" id="100000003524955" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-LNDB/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-LNDB-tmagArticle-v2.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-LNDB/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-LNDB-tmagArticle-v2.jpg" width="592" /></div>
<figcaption class="caption" itemprop="description" style="color: #909090; font-size: 1.2em; line-height: 1.2727em; margin-bottom: 0px;"><span class="caption-text">Edie Campbell on the runway at Boss.</span><span class="credit" itemprop="copyrightHolder" style="display: inline; font-size: 1em; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 3px; margin-top: 8px; text-align: right;"><span class="visually-hidden" style="border: 0px; clip: rect(0px 0px 0px 0px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">Credit</span> Firstview</span></figcaption></figure></div>
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<strong>The end of “meh head”</strong></div>
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Spring was all about <span style="color: red;">long, slightly wavy, effortless dos</span>; but it seems lazy, “meh” hair might be finished come fall. At the Hugo Boss show, the model Edie Campbell opened the show with a brand-new haircut — and had returned to an inky black color. With short, mod bangs and longer sideburns, Campbell’s look stood out amongst the other ponytails at the show. Elsewhere, sleek — almost wet — hairstyles rivaled the au-naturel look.</div>
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<img alt="Thursday night’s Marc Jacobs show." height="395" id="100000003524995" itemid="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-8SMO/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-8SMO-tmagArticle.jpg" itemprop="url" src="http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2015/02/20/t-magazine/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-8SMO/20top-nyfw-gilchrist-slide-8SMO-tmagArticle.jpg" width="592" /></div>
<figcaption class="caption" itemprop="description" style="color: #909090; font-size: 1.2em; line-height: 1.2727em; margin-bottom: 0px;"><span class="caption-text">Thursday night’s Marc Jacobs show.</span><span class="credit" itemprop="copyrightHolder" style="display: inline; font-size: 1em; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 3px; margin-top: 8px; text-align: right;"><span class="visually-hidden" style="border: 0px; clip: rect(0px 0px 0px 0px); height: 1px; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: absolute; width: 1px;">Credit</span> John Minchillo/Associated Press</span></figcaption></figure></div>
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<strong>Marc Jacobs. Period.</strong></div>
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Marc Jacobs had a buzzy season. At Marc by Marc Jacobs, which bears his name but is designed by Katie Hilier and Luella Bartley, the younger client was in a rebellious spirit, with a collection inspired by protest culture. His main collection shared a similar sense of excitement, with a handpainted backdrop that recreated Diana Vreeland’s famous “garden in hell” living room. The dramatic show opened with a black shift dress and elbow-length leather gloves, and continued to unfold set to the soundtrack of screeching violins. It was a thrilling way to close New York Fashion Week — London, here we come!</div>
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